∴ GNOSMIC ∴

∴ perfume basics and reviews ∴

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This is Evernia prunastri, commonly known as oakmoss. This simple lichen, native to temperate climates, tends to grow on oaks, but it’s quite adaptable. For example, the 60-year-old azalea in my front yard here in Seattle is lousy with it. It’s also the keystone note to two of the most successful, ubiquitous, and famous accords in perfumery: the chypre and the fougère. The basic chypre accord consists of bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum notes. The basic fougère is lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin.  Both have oakmoss at their hearts. In 1991 the perfume landscape was dramatically altered when IFRA, the European body that sets guidelines for the safety of fragrance ingredients, set strict limits on the amount of oakmoss that a perfume could contain: one tenth of one percent. IFRA set the limit after conclusive evidence showed that oakmoss -- despite being 100% all-natural, vegan, and organic — is an allergen that can irritate the skin and mucous membranes, among other things. (More specifically, the allergens in natural oakmoss are atranol and chloratranol.) As a result of the new classification of oakmoss as an allergen, countless perfumes had to be reformulated to reduce their use of the note. For perfume nerds, these reformulations were the equivalent of repainting the Mona Lisa or redecorating the Sistine Chapel. Monuments to perfumery such as Guerlain Mitsouko (1919, by Jacques Guerlain), Christian Dior Miss Dior (1947, by Jean Carles and Serge Heftler Louiche), Robert Piguet Bandit (1944, by Germaine Cellier), and hundreds of others were changed. Depending on the scent and the zeal of one’s opinion, these changes ranged from tweaks to the utter ruination of masterpieces. Allergen classification and IFRA regulations aren’t the only reason perfumes are reformulated, and in my opinion IFRA is somewhat unfairly vilified in the perfume world. Other reasons perfume formulae are changed include ingredient prices and availability, attempts to suit contemporary tastes, and even whim.

This is Evernia prunastri, commonly known as oakmoss. This simple lichen, native to temperate climates, tends to grow on oaks, but it’s quite adaptable. For example, the 60-year-old azalea in my front yard here in Seattle is lousy with it.

It’s also the keystone note to two of the most successful, ubiquitous, and famous accords in perfumery: the chypre and the fougère. The basic chypre accord consists of bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum notes. The basic fougère is lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin.  Both have oakmoss at their hearts.

In 1991 the perfume landscape was dramatically altered when IFRA, the European body that sets guidelines for the safety of fragrance ingredients, set strict limits on the amount of oakmoss that a perfume could contain: one tenth of one percent. IFRA set the limit after conclusive evidence showed that oakmoss -- despite being 100% all-natural, vegan, and organic — is an allergen that can irritate the skin and mucous membranes, among other things. (More specifically, the allergens in natural oakmoss are atranol and chloratranol.)

As a result of the new classification of oakmoss as an allergen, countless perfumes had to be reformulated to reduce their use of the note. For perfume nerds, these reformulations were the equivalent of repainting the Mona Lisa or redecorating the Sistine Chapel. Monuments to perfumery such as Guerlain Mitsouko (1919, by Jacques Guerlain), Christian Dior Miss Dior (1947, by Jean Carles and Serge Heftler Louiche), Robert Piguet Bandit (1944, by Germaine Cellier), and hundreds of others were changed. Depending on the scent and the zeal of one’s opinion, these changes ranged from tweaks to the utter ruination of masterpieces.

Allergen classification and IFRA regulations aren’t the only reason perfumes are reformulated, and in my opinion IFRA is somewhat unfairly vilified in the perfume world. Other reasons perfume formulae are changed include ingredient prices and availability, attempts to suit contemporary tastes, and even whim.

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Aw, so pretty! So fresh and pink and pretty and natural! It’s oleander, and a cup of tea made from its leaves would kill you. Other toxic plants include sweet pea, daffodil/narcissus, wisteria, crocus, angel’s trumpet, monkshood, castor bean, nightshade, water hemlock, and daphne, whose blossoms possess one of my favorite scents. “Natural” has nothing to do with “safe” and “synthetic” does not mean “dangerous.” Natural ingredients can be deadly and synthetic ingredients are usually benign. But synthetics trigger allergies more, right? Absolutely not. An essential oil or absolute derived from a natural source contains dozens or sometimes hundreds of molecules. A synthetic fragrance ingredient contains one. Which is more likely to contain an allergen? Which is easier to test as an allergen? Modern perfumery began with synthetics. Synthesized coumarin enabled the creation of Houbigant’s Fougère Royale (1882, Paul Parquet), which established the famous fougère accord. Synthesized vanilla led to Guerlain’s Jicky (1889, Aimé Guerlain), which in turn led to Shalimar (1925, Jacques Guerlain) and its hundreds of imitators and derivatives. As long as ingredients must be taken from nature, they remain expensive, elusive, and inconsistent. When they are synthesized, they become democratized. Why did oud become such a prevalent trend in perfume over the past few years? Because a synthetic oud note became available midway through the last decade. Natural perfumery also has environmental costs. The musk deer is endangered partially because for centuries it was killed for its musk pods. Santalum trees, the source of sandalwood, grow for eighty years to reach the peak of their fragrant oil production. Entire forests of sandalwood have been harvested to oblivion and as a result India has banned export of santal timber. Think of the trees. Don’t vilify synthetics.

Aw, so pretty! So fresh and pink and pretty and natural! It’s oleander, and a cup of tea made from its leaves would kill you.

Other toxic plants include sweet pea, daffodil/narcissus, wisteria, crocus, angel’s trumpet, monkshood, castor bean, nightshade, water hemlock, and daphne, whose blossoms possess one of my favorite scents.

“Natural” has nothing to do with “safe” and “synthetic” does not mean “dangerous.” Natural ingredients can be deadly and synthetic ingredients are usually benign.

But synthetics trigger allergies more, right? Absolutely not. An essential oil or absolute derived from a natural source contains dozens or sometimes hundreds of molecules. A synthetic fragrance ingredient contains one. Which is more likely to contain an allergen? Which is easier to test as an allergen?

Modern perfumery began with synthetics. Synthesized coumarin enabled the creation of Houbigant’s Fougère Royale (1882, Paul Parquet), which established the famous fougère accord. Synthesized vanilla led to Guerlain’s Jicky (1889, Aimé Guerlain), which in turn led to Shalimar (1925, Jacques Guerlain) and its hundreds of imitators and derivatives.

As long as ingredients must be taken from nature, they remain expensive, elusive, and inconsistent. When they are synthesized, they become democratized. Why did oud become such a prevalent trend in perfume over the past few years? Because a synthetic oud note became available midway through the last decade.

Natural perfumery also has environmental costs. The musk deer is endangered partially because for centuries it was killed for its musk pods. Santalum trees, the source of sandalwood, grow for eighty years to reach the peak of their fragrant oil production. Entire forests of sandalwood have been harvested to oblivion and as a result India has banned export of santal timber.

Think of the trees. Don’t vilify synthetics.