∴ GNOSMIC ∴

∴ perfume basics and reviews ∴

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I’m a fan of Chanel’s Les Exclusifs line; in my opinion all are above average fragrances and most are exceptional. So I’m eager to smell the new Jersey (2011, Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake, named for Coco Chanel’s pioneering use of jersey fabric in couture) to see how it measures up. Jersey also falls into a category I like: a duet of lavender and vanilla. Other examples include Guerlain Jicky (1889, Aimé Guerlain) and Caron Pour Un Homme (1934, Ernest Daltroff), both of which are classic and in my opinion unisex scents. I’m looking forward to finding out what Chanel brings to the basic structure. Because it’s Chanel, I’d guess aldehydes, orris, and ambrette are involved — and that’s fine by me.

I’m a fan of Chanel’s Les Exclusifs line; in my opinion all are above average fragrances and most are exceptional. So I’m eager to smell the new Jersey (2011, Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake, named for Coco Chanel’s pioneering use of jersey fabric in couture) to see how it measures up.

Jersey also falls into a category I like: a duet of lavender and vanilla. Other examples include Guerlain Jicky (1889, Aimé Guerlain) and Caron Pour Un Homme (1934, Ernest Daltroff), both of which are classic and in my opinion unisex scents.

I’m looking forward to finding out what Chanel brings to the basic structure. Because it’s Chanel, I’d guess aldehydes, orris, and ambrette are involved — and that’s fine by me.

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Polo Ralph Lauren (L’Oréal), Polo, 1978, by Carlos Benaïm Notes: pine, lavender, juniper, artemesia, bergamot, cumin, basil, coriander, marjoram, jasmine, carnation, geranium, thyme, rose, oakmoss, patchouli, leather, cedar, amber, frankincense, musk For us Gen-Xers, no scent defines high school so utterly. How many of us who grew up in the 80s knew that one girl who loved this fragrance so much that she washed her sheets with it? Polo is still excellent after a few decades, despite reformulation due to restrictions on use of oakmoss. It starts with an unmistakeable pine and juniper note and grows friendlier and mossier as it dries down, never achieving the creosote-and-castoreum barbarity of Caron’s great Yatagan (1976, by Vincent Marcello). But Polo is politely dirty in its own way, given a tiny bit of “sweatiness” by touches of cumin and coriander. And hours after application, the pine hangs on but is joined by labdanum and a quiet frankincense. Pretty amazing. This is a persisent, complex, high-sillage juice. Apply sparingly. If you can’t handle the flashbacks, decant Polo into a different bottle to recontextualize it. Don’t bother with the boring flankers like Polo Blue (2002, by Christophe Laudamiel and Carlos Benaïm).

Polo Ralph Lauren (L’Oréal), Polo, 1978, by Carlos Benaïm

Notes: pine, lavender, juniper, artemesia, bergamot, cumin, basil, coriander, marjoram, jasmine, carnation, geranium, thyme, rose, oakmoss, patchouli, leather, cedar, amber, frankincense, musk

For us Gen-Xers, no scent defines high school so utterly. How many of us who grew up in the 80s knew that one girl who loved this fragrance so much that she washed her sheets with it?

Polo is still excellent after a few decades, despite reformulation due to restrictions on use of oakmoss. It starts with an unmistakeable pine and juniper note and grows friendlier and mossier as it dries down, never achieving the creosote-and-castoreum barbarity of Caron’s great Yatagan (1976, by Vincent Marcello). But Polo is politely dirty in its own way, given a tiny bit of “sweatiness” by touches of cumin and coriander. And hours after application, the pine hangs on but is joined by labdanum and a quiet frankincense. Pretty amazing.

This is a persisent, complex, high-sillage juice. Apply sparingly. If you can’t handle the flashbacks, decant Polo into a different bottle to recontextualize it. Don’t bother with the boring flankers like Polo Blue (2002, by Christophe Laudamiel and Carlos Benaïm).

Polo

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Which fragrances are on your current rotation?

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Knize, Knize Ten, 1924, François Coty and Vincent Roubert

Chanel, Sycomore, 2008, Jacques Polge

Ralph Lauren, Polo, 1978, Carlos Benaïm

Caron, Le Troisième Homme, 1985, ?

Frédéric Malle, Cologne Bigarade, 2001, Jean-Claude Ellena

L’Artisan Parfumeur, Dzing!, 1999, Olivia Giacobetti

Heeley, Cuir Pleine Fleur, 2008, ?

Chanel,Égoïste, 1990, Jacques Polge

Parfums de Nicolaï, New York, 1989, Patricia de Nicolaï

Estée Lauder, Tuscany per Uomo, 1984, ?

Guerlain, Habit Rouge, 1965, Jean Paul Guerlain

Chanel, Chanel Pour Monsieur, 1955, Henri Robert

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This station break brought to you by the letter M (for sweet rye Manhattans) and the number 3 (for The Third Man, the skillful and satisfying 1949 noir that was the inspiration for one of my favorite perfumes for men: Caron’s Le Troisième Homme, 1985).

This station break brought to you by the letter M (for sweet rye Manhattans) and the number 3 (for The Third Man, the skillful and satisfying 1949 noir that was the inspiration for one of my favorite perfumes for men: Caron’s Le Troisième Homme, 1985).